Mastering ISO: Essential Landscape Photography Skills Volume 3 Ep 5

This week, I wanted to revisit ISO properly, not just as a setting, but as something we often misunderstand.

In this weeks video I cover

When I first started shooting, ISO felt like a rescue button. If things were too dark, I raised it. Simple. But over time, I realised that ISO decisions directly affect the quality of the final image.

ISO stands for International Organisation for Standardisation. It’s a carryover from film days. Back then, if you loaded ISO 200 film, that was it. You were locked in. If the light changed, you adapted with aperture or shutter speed. That discipline forced you to think.

Today, we can change ISO shot by shot. That flexibility is powerful, but it can also make us potentially lazy.

Most cameras have a native ISO, usually ISO 100. That’s where the sensor performs at its best. Maximum dynamic range. Minimal noise. When I’m on a tripod shooting landscapes, I start there and only move away from it if necessary.

Some cameras even allow ISO 50 or 64. These can help in bright conditions, but they are often expanded settings and don’t always offer better highlight protection.

In manual mode, I always adjust ISO last. Aperture controls depth. Shutter speed controls motion. ISO supports the exposure. If I change ISO first, I risk compromising the image quality before I need to.

Astrophotography is different. When shooting the Milky Way, ISO 3200 or 6400 isn’t excessive. It’s required. The key is knowing why you’re raising it, not just reacting.

Auto ISO can help in fast-changing conditions, but remember the camera is metering the scene for you. It doesn’t understand your intention. It can misread bright or dark scenes and shift exposure away from what you want.

For me, ISO is about control. The less I rely on it unnecessarily, the better my files are.

I’m curious how you approach it. Do you keep ISO fixed as long as possible, or do you adjust it early?

Watch the video here